The joy of food against lactose intolerance. Part 1, Amsterdam.
After many years of dairy excess, and after a period of great stress and much reduced consumption of milk, my wife developed lactose intolerance. It is a way of losing weight, specially if undiagnosed for long, but not a recommended one.
We have coped quite easily at home, with an increasing number of lactose-free and ersatz-dairy products, though she often watches mournfully how I polish a feta salad or a very old cured cheese. However when traveling or even simply eating out it can be a big problem, both because the consequences are worse and there are so many hidden dairy uses. So it has become something to consider when planning holidays. Last year's Japan was easy, just avoid Western food and it will be okay.
The first Dutch food we faced, as we strolled out of the hotel were the ubiquitous Belgian import, the "frites", and the mysterious "fritesaus". A quick discussion and some horrified customers later after reading the components in the tub of sauce, we were good. Not sure if chemically modified vegetable oil and some traces of egg are good; but it had no dairy.
It was late and we were tired, so dinner was shoarma, which is what most of Europe call a kebab now; but without the yoghourt sauce for her.
There are so many Eastern influences, or good beer with good meat, so it was quite easy to stay safe. lots of coconut milk, nasi goreng, roasted duck and brochettes in peanut sauce. And grilled steaks; a good backup plan. We wondered why there are so many Argentinian restaurants in Amsterdam. I suppose it is because of the quality of the meat.
Anyway, even after eating an unhealthy amount of "frites", Asterdam was good to us. Now the biggest challenge waited: Paris and butter drenched, cream abusing French cuisine.
Cosmopolitan or worldly, I wonder
It was a good idea to start with Amsterdam and to continue through Paris. The inverse would have meant less enjoyment, unpleasant comparisons between hotels, not to mention we would miss the night train compartments.
The main reason is the progression from less to more. Size. People. Impact. Fatigue. Expenses. The only thing we are having less in Paris is alcohol.
We really enjoyed ourselves in Amsterdam, including the Zeedijk heart party, the Prinsengracht concert (we were for the people, not the music, and the blocked canals), the food (rijstaffel for the win, at
Aneka Rasa) even or specially the "frites". However, with a few exceptions, it is more of a town than a true city, with everything close, small streets or canals, made for leisurely walking or sailing, and with most of the tourists focused in a few streets, very easy to escape the noise and crowds, to have a beer or several at an "eetcafe" with something to eat. Just to relax, get in shape, and reach the holiday spirit.
Paris, on the other hand, is crowded, and huge, not to mention that it is an old friend, or maybe an old lover you are still friendly with. When you avoid the tourist hordes, there are tons of Frenchpeople, and often you get both. Except for a few miracles, or maybe buying food at Monoprix, either you get good food or cheap food, but not both. As for alcohol, Monoprix is your only choice, and we are a bit old for drinking in the parks. Yet the sheer size of the place, the buildings, the distances... To make matters worse, my wife had never seen Versailles, so I am currenly recovering from an overdose of people and "Grandeur".
Best new discovery so far, the
Mosque of Paris and its services, including the excellent restaurant. Excellent couscous and pastries.